Morella, Puglia, Italy
Morella, Puglia, Italy
In the sun-kissed region of Manduria, nestled in the heart of Puglia, lies a hidden gem that has stood the test of time - the old bush-trained vines that have been producing exceptional wines for over a century. These ancient vines, some dating back to a time when winemaking was a labor of love passed down through generations, are a testament to the resilience and tenacity of the land and its people.
Lisa Gilbee, an Australian winemaker who has been working in Italy since 1994, along with her Italian husband Gaetano, founded the Morella estate in Manduria in 2000. Their primary focus is nurturing old vine Primitivo to craft exceptional wines that reflect the essence of the region.
The estate covers 20 hectares of vines, including 12 hectares of bush vine primitivo, with vine ages ranging from 45 up to 95 years. The oldest vineyards are bottled individually as three different crus - Old Vines Primitivo, La Signora Primitivo, Mondo Nuovo Primitivo, and Alla Fiorentina Primitivo. Their total production amounts to some 40,000 bottles.
"Numerous vineyards were planted by various farmers at different times. These vineyards were planted with the traditional albarello vine. The grapes from these vineyards were always intended for bulk wine or distillation. After years of working with these wines, I fully support the importance of preserving old vineyards and their inherent value," stated Lisa Gilbee.
The beauty of these bush-trained vines lies not only in their ability to withstand the elements but also in the sustainable practices that have been passed down from generation to generation. The vineyards of Manduria are a living testament to the harmony between man and nature, where traditional methods and modern techniques come together to create wines that are as timeless as the vines themselves.
The philosophy adopted by Lisa and her husband Gaetano is that of biodynamic farming to allow the vines to have the best conditions to express themselves. According to Lisa, it is not sustainable to keep old vines to make bulk wine, so you must make the best wine possible and find people who are going to appreciate its quality.
Exploring the old bush-trained vines of Manduria offers a glimpse into a world where the past and the present converge, where the beauty of the land is reflected in the glass. It is a journey that celebrates the resilience of these ancient vines, the quality of their wines, and the enduring legacy of a region that continues to inspire and captivate wine lovers around the world.
"There is a wealth of untapped knowledge waiting to be unearthed in these vineyards - from the value they hold to the unique techniques and albarello biotypes used. If we let them disappear, we lose the chance to learn from their legacy,"says Lisa.
For more information:
www.morellavini.com
@morellavini