The Old Vine Conference Masterclasses
Sarah Abbott MW & Alun Griffiths MW present old vine wines to trade & media at 67 Pall Mall
Iain Liston-Brown shares his account of a day of Old Vine Conference Masterclasses.
2 trade & media Masterclasses, 1 consumer masterclass, 6 expert presenters, 56 attendees, 29 old vine wines from 9 countries and 5 continents representing 25 wineries and 20 importers! All in one day! And all thanks to the generous support of our hosts at London’s 67 Pall Mall.
Iain Liston-Brown is a UK based friend of Marchelle Wines from Sonoma County and is a passionate advocate for the old vine wines they produce: he hand delivered one of the Marchelle wines for our morning Masterclass and gave us permission to share his account of the day and his notes on the wines he tasted.
Marchelle Wines is a passion project of legendary Sonoma County winemaker, Greg La Follette, and Silicon Valley veteran, Kevin Lee. They make small batches of unique, thought-provoking wines from old vine Colombard, Cinsault, Carignan and Zinfandel. Looking for a UK importer they showed the Marchelle Bechthold Vineyard old vine Cinsault at our Northern Hemisphere trade and media masterclass. The Cinsault that goes into this wine is from the world’s oldest planting of Cinsault which are ungrafted, head trained and dry farmed vines in Mokelumne River .
Iain attended the Northern and Southern Hemisphere trade & media masterclasses held on Monday 4th July, at 67 Pall Mall, here is his full account of the day.
Northern Hemisphere wine lineup
“As I alighted at London Euston railway station around 09:10 I was greeted by a beautiful English Summer day; blue skies with some puffy white clouds, a slight breeze and temperatures in the early 20s centigrade. I took a 15 minute journey on the Victoria Underground Line to Green Park and a then a short walk along Piccadilly past the Ritz hotel, right onto St James and then down and left into Pall Mall. Finally I crossed the street to Number 67. This had all the signs of being a wonderful day. Entering the basement tasting room I was greeted by Belinda Stone. Belinda’s tenacity and skills at organisation made this event happen. I handed over my wines for tasting and was greeted by Alun Griffiths MW who was to host the first of the day’s masterclasses covering the Northern hemisphere.
As 67 Pall Mall’s sommelier started to open the wines for Alun to taste I noted that just about all the producers and most of these wines were new to me. Five out of the 10 wines in the Northern Hemisphere flight, including the one I provided, were from the USA. As fellow Masterclass delegates arrived the sommelier started to pour the wines. Old vines might be the source but certainly from the colours in the glass these were not likely to be highly extracted wines. The flight of ten Northern Hemisphere Old Vine wines were introduced by Alun Griffiths MW supported by Sarah Abbott MW with multi-media information.
Of the flight of ten wines the only one I was familiar with and had tasted before was the Calera Mills Vineyard Pinot Noir from Mount Harlan AVA but not in the 2018 vintage. I first visited Calera and met Josh Jensen in 1995 and when I asked what the local town Hollister was famous for I was told “Earthquakes”! Note Calera was not the wine I supplied for this Masterclass.
Villa Bogdano’s Lison Classico DOCG 2019
Wine 1: 2019 Villa Bogdano, Lison Classico DOCG, Italy
Vineyard Age: 79 years (organic), RRP £23, Alcohol 13%. Soft pressing fermented in concrete tanks with 8 months lees contact, regular batonnage and 3 months in bottle before release. Golden, honeysuckle, stone fruits, texture, excellent acidity, saline, rich, hint of citrus as opens, food wine, will develop.
Wine 2: 2018 Calera Pinot Noir, Mills Vineyard, Mount Harlan, USA
Vineyard Age: 38 years, RRP £72.99, Alcohol 14.4%. Whole cluster fermented with native yeasts. Aged 18 months in 100% French Oak, 30% new, 70% neutral. Ruby, raspberries, cherries, hints of cola, light/medium tannins, medium acidity, some oak, savoury, good length, will age. As one person remarked this is a fine legacy to Josh Jensen’s vision.
Wine 3: 2017 Vinedos Viejos de Altura Garnacha, Secastilla, Spain
Vineyard Age: 80-100 years, RRP £28, Alcohol 15%. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation, new French oak barrels for 10 months, aged in bottle 9 months. Dark Ruby with very dark centre, strawberries and red fruits, subtle oak, hints chocolate, structured, spice, less acidity, savoury, good length.
Wine 4: 2014 Feudi di San Gregorio Serpico Irpinia DOC, Italy
Vineyard Age: 100+ years (ungrafted), RRP £45, Alcohol 14.4%. Fermented in stainless steel, aged in barriques 6 months followed by larger oak foudres for 18 months and finally aged in bottle for a further 3 years. Dark garnet, developing, earthy, savoury, perfumed, hint older oak, good acidity and tannins raspberries, cherries, hints of cola, lighter tannins, good acidity, some oak, savoury, good length, will age.
Wine 5: 2019 Domaine des Tourelles Villes Vignes Cinsault, Lebanon
Vineyard Age: 50+ years, RRP £18, Alcohol 14%. Fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete for 10 days, spontaneous malolactic, aged in neutral French oak for 8 months. Pale ruby/garnet, developing, hints of straw, herbal, red fruits, slightly rustic, quite fresh, lighter tannins, reasonable acidity, good length.
Marchelle Old Vines Cinsault, Bechthold Vineyard, Mokelumne River, USA
Wine 6: 2016 Louis M Martini Monte Rosso Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley, USA
Vineyard Age: 82 years, RRP £105-£110, Alcohol 15.3%. Blocks picked and fermented separately and racked into oak barrels for malolactic and ageing. Blocks aged separately for months before a final blend is assembled and sent back into barrel. 26 months in French oak (75% new) and American oak (19% new). Dark ruby with very dark centre, tar, smoke, blackcurrants, structured, ripe and silky, beautifully polished, good acidity, very good length.
Wine 7: 2019 Hahn Family Wines Boneshaker Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi, USA
Vineyard Age: 60-100 years, RRP £29, Alcohol 15%
16 months ageing in oak, 60% new French barrels. Dark ruby, straw, caramel, blackberries, liquorice, polished, ripe and slightly porty, all spice, lower acidity, good length, heat on finish. One person remarked the Italians don’t call this grape Primitivo for nothing but in my experience of 30 years visiting many AVAs across California there are some lovely Zinfandels to be found; however alcohols are often high due to bunches not ripening evenly.
Wine 8: 2020 Marchelle Wines Cinsault Bechthold Vineyard, Mokelumne Lodi, USA
Vineyard Age: 126 years (ungrafted, dry farmed), RRP $44, Alcohol 13.8%. Indigenous yeasts, partial whole cluster fermentation (10%) with 18 days en cuvaison. Primary fermentation completed in barrel and aged in once used and neutral oak kept on the lees for 30 months with weekly then monthly batonnage. Pale ruby, meaty, animal, red currants, beautiful texture and mouthfeel, silky, elegant, spice, saline, good acidity, lovely length. Sarah called out the beautiful texture here.
Wine 9: 2016 Baxter Winery Carignan, Anderson Valley, USA
Vineyard Age: 80+ years, RRP £32, Alcohol 14.5%. Fermented in small open top tanks, native yeasts, 30% whole cluster, extended cold soak and hand punch down, 24 months ageing in neutral French oak barrels. Medium ruby, dark fruits/berries, lovely acidity, plush, polished, lighter tannins and less intensity but good length.
Wine 10: 2016 Bodega Numanthia Toro DO, Spain
Vineyard Age: 50 & 100 years, RRP £46, Alcohol 15%. Cold pre-fermentation and maceration for 4 days. Alcoholic fermentation in 7 days with pumping over. Extended maceration on skins with soft pigeages. Malolactic fermentation in stainless steel. 18 months ageing in French oak barrels (225 & 400 litres) 60% new and 40% 2nd year racked every 4 months. Tinta de Tora being the regions Tempranillo grape which I know well from the Matsu range of wines Very dark ruby, intense black fruits, spice, hints of perfume, structure, excellent length, will age.
The Old Vines Conference has definitely struck a chord since some USA winemakers want to show they have some real heritage in their vineyards and use the material to make wines not necessarily seen in Old World countries like France where the same grapes are prolific in blending. There was some deft winemaking here celebrating the old vines and coaxing out aromatics, flavours and complexity without making monsters. It was clear from the Northern Hemisphere tasting that encouraging growers and winemakers to collaborate, market and ensure the commercial survival of these old vines provides not only survival of communities but survival of plant material and wines which can really stand out amongst a sea of uniformity.
The Old Vine Conference Masterclass set up at 67 Pall Mall.
The flight of ten Southern Hemisphere Old Vine wines below were introduced by Amanda Barnes and Derek Mossman Knapp supported by Sarah Abbott MW with multi-media information. The only producer I was familiar with was Miguel Torres, Chile but I had not tasted any of these wines previously.
Amanda Barnes, Derek Mossman Knapp and Sarah Abbott MW presented the Southern Hemisphere Masterclass
Wine 1: 2021 Mullineux Old Vines White, Swartland, South Africa
Vineyard Age: 40-67 years, RRP £26.99, Alcohol 13.5%. Indigenous yeast fermentation in barrel and aged in French oak for 11 months 20% of which was new. Pale Lemon, like a white Rhône, beautiful acidity, fresh, saline, texture and mouthfeel, richer than pure Chenin Blanc, good length, food wine. Special thanks to Andre Morgenthal of The Old Vine Project in South Africa and Andrea Mullineax winemaker at Mullineux who joined the masterclass remotely to talk us through this wine.
Wine 2: 2021 Langmeil Winery Riesling Wattle Brae, Eden Valley, Australia
Vineyard Age: 42-54 years, RRP £21-£22, Alcohol 11.5%. Destemmed and fermented in open top fermenter with some pumping over. Gently pressed in a basket press for 20 hours, unfined and minimal filtering. Pale Lemon/Green, limey, apples, acidity runs through, very slightly off-dry.
Wine 3: 2018 Miguel Torres Estelado Rose, Chile
Vineyard Age: 100 years, RRP £11-£14, Alcohol 12%. Traditional method with secondary fermentation in bottle for 45 days. Aged on the lees for 5-6 months. Pais grape, very pale salmon pink, traditional methods from Cava etc. water melons, bubble gum, high acidity, salty, good length.
Wine 4: 2021 Matias Riccitelli Old Vines Semillon, Patagonia, Argentina
Vineyard Age: 50+ years (ungrafted), RRP £35, Alcohol 12.5%. Selection by hand before a skin maceration of 48 hours at 100 C. Fermented and aged in used French Oak barrels and concrete eggs followed by ageing with 60% in oak barrels and 40% in concrete eggs. Pale Lemon, toastiness dominant on nose, high acidity, fresh, slightly rounded, good length.
Wine 5: 2020 Garage Wine Co. Isadore Vineyard Semillon F3, Maule Valley, Chile
Vineyard Age: 65+ years, RRP £27.38, Alcohol 13.5%. Fermented naturally in amphora with some whole bunches. Seeds removed from the surface but fermentation remained on the skins for 8 months. Aged in old barrels for 12 months. Golden, ripe, hint tropical, high acidity, saline, mouthfeel and texture, good length.
Garage Wine Co. Isidore Vineyard Semillon 2020, Maule Valley, Chile
Wine 6: Garage Wine Co. Carignan Field-blend, 2018 Truquilemu Vineyard, Empedrado, Maule Valley, Lot 97, Chile
Vineyard Age: 80+ years, RRP £34.99, Alcohol 13%. Natural yeast fermentation in conical lagers, whole bunch layering, light punch down, co-fermented, malolactic and aged in older barrels (third use or more) for two winters. Deep ruby, cherries, touch menthol, fresh, juicy, good acidity, savoury, hidden structure from whole bunch vinification. 96% Carignan, 4% Syrah.
Wine 7: 2017 Leeu Passant Old Vines Cinsault, Wellington Western Cape, South Africa
Vineyard Age: 122 years, RRP £54.99, Alcohol 13.5%. Crushed and destemmed, indigenous yeast fermentation in tank with pigeage for 11 days followed by 3 weeks skin maceration before pressing and aging 20 months in 500 litre oak barrels. Deep Garnet, currants, savoury, good acidity, tight, structured, will age.
Wine 8: 2018 Yangarra Estate Old Vine Grenache, McLaren Vale, Australia
Vineyard Age: 76 years, RRP £24-£25.50, Alcohol 14.5%. Bunch sorting takes place in the winery with fermentation in open fermenters using wild yeasts, 50% destemmed, and receiving punch downs. Basket pressed the wine is kept on the lees for 10 months in older oak with no fining only filtration. Pale ruby, attractive and pretty nose, silky, juicy, elegant, lovely length.
Wine 9: 2017 Agustin Lanus Sumak Kawsay Malbec, Amaicha del Valle, Argentina
Vineyard Age: 60-100 years, RRP £20, Alcohol 14.5%. Cold pre-fermentation for 4 days. Fermented with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks at a controlled temperature. 50% of the wine is aged in tanks for 15 months and 50% in used French oak barrels. Unfiltered and unclarified. Deep ruby with dark centre, dark fruits, juicy, good acidity, hidden tannins, perfumed, should age.
Wine 10: 2017 Langmeil Winery Orphan Bank Shiraz, Australia
Vineyard Age: 85 years, RRP £45-£46, Alcohol 15%. Aged 23 months in 40% new and 60% seasoned French oak hogsheads. Dark ruby with dark centre, mixed red and black fruits, very ripe, structured but silky, perfume, acidity to balance, lovely length, still has freshness.
Bonus Wine: 2015 Yokich El Eden Noble Botrytis, Cinti Valley, Bolivia
Pais grape, amber/gold, glycerous, luscious, medium acidity, barley sugar, lovely length.
Observations of the Southern hemisphere wines was around the juiciness and freshness seen; which were generally younger than the Northern hemisphere wines shown. The two Pais-based wines and the Cinsault showed once again how interesting wines made from “lesser” grape varieties can be with old vineyards. The Australian reds showed their usual power and length but handled in a way to retain more freshness and elegance. The Chenin Blanc and Semillon wines showed how good these grapes can be for pairing with food. Thanks to Belinda Stone, Sarah Abbott MW and Alun Griffiths MW for putting on this Masterclass tasting.”
By Iain Liston-Brown.