Episode 5
Transcript – Episode 5: Winemaking and viticulture with the old vines of the Don Melchor vineyard in Puente Alto with Enrique Tirado & Ben Smith
The Old Vine Conference Podcast.
Cynthia Chaplin: Welcome to the Old Vine Podcast. I'm your host, Cynthia Chaplin, and today I'm delighted to have Enrique Tirado, enologist, CEO, and Technical Director of Viña Don Melchor from Chile, along with Ben Smith, Director of FreeRun PR and Head of Communications for the Concha y Toro Group, of which Don Melchor was the original member.
Enrique and Ben are in London today, and I'm in Verona, so we are a truly diverse, international group of wine industry professionals for this conversation. I want to give a little background before we delve into the details.
Don Melchor became a member of the Old Vine Conference due to its eponymous vineyard in the Puente Alto Appellation of the Maipo Valley, at 650 meters above sea level in the foothills of Chile's Andes Mountains. With 125 hectares of vineyards planted between 1979 and 1992, guardianship of the old vines is both a link to the past and a key to the future.
Don Melchor Concha y Toro himself is considered one of the forefathers of Chilean wine production, with his first vineyards planted on pre-phylloxera French vines in 1883. One hundred years later, in 1986, the then-president of Concha y Toro took the Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon from Puente Alto to France and met with Bordeaux's renowned enologist Emile Peynaud, who was so impressed that he dispatched his closest colleague, Jacques Boissenot from Médoc, to consult with Don Melchor in Chile.
So, thank you both, Enrique and Ben, for being with us today. I'm looking forward to this conversation. We have so much to talk about.
Enrique Tirado: Thank you, Cynthia. I am so happy to be here. Thank you for this time and the opportunity to talk about old vines, Don Melchor, and the Puente Alto Appellation.
Cynthia Chaplin: I know, Enrique, you've been the Technical Director at Don Melchor since 1997, and it is no exaggeration to say that you've become one of the most influential and experienced winemakers in Puente Alto. You've been intensely involved in studying the soil, climate, and agricultural management for almost three decades. So I have to ask: what makes this area so unique and so well-suited to your premium Cabernet Sauvignon wines?
Enrique Tirado: Thank you. Yes, it's true. I’ve spent my entire career in Puente Alto. Puente Alto is so unique because we have a specific terroir for making Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines. The vineyard is located at the foot of the Andes Mountains, so we have a huge influence from the Andes in terms of soil, weather—everything.
The soil here is stony and poor, yet complex. It's not just stony and sandy; it has different nutrients and elements, with varying levels of clay and stones. So it's a great, complex soil, which is very important because it allows us to achieve complexity in the final wine.
The Andes also have a significant influence, as cold winds blow down from the mountains every night, cooling the area. In this way, the climatic conditions are moderated by the Andes. With the combination of stony soil, the mountain influence, and the Cabernet Sauvignon, we create a truly majestic wine.
The terroir in Puente Alto is unique for producing Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines, and it's why we can consistently produce quality wines every year at Don Melchor.
Cynthia Chaplin: Puente Alto must be one of the highest-altitude places where Cabernet Sauvignon grows in the world. When we think of Chile, we think of hot and sunny, but because you are over 600 meters above sea level, the diurnal change—the cooling effect at night—keeps the grapes from ripening too early. That location, soil complexity, and altitude are so important. It sounds like the most beautiful place, and I am longing to visit Chile. It's wonderful to hear how these factors affect your wine, and that the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes truly thrive in that location.
Enrique Tirado: You're right. Despite being in a Mediterranean climate, we have a cool climate here because of the Andes' influence. Every day and every night, the mountain breeze provides a natural, slow ripening process, allowing us to wait for the right maturity at the end of the season. With this perfect combination of soil, weather, and Cabernet Sauvignon, we can achieve a balance of freshness, expression, and energy, along with finesse, balance, and harmony.
In my opinion, this is what makes Puente Alto so unique. We can capture energy and finesse, balance, red fruit, freshness, and harmony all at once. That is why this terroir is exceptional.
Cynthia Chaplin: I also know there is a significant human element in your vineyard. It’s not just about the natural effects. The Cabernet Sauvignon in the Don Melchor vineyard originates from a massal selection. Can you explain that process and how it incorporates the genetic material from the original pre-phylloxera vines planted by Don Melchor himself in the 1880s? How does the massal selection protect and strengthen the current vines and support the future of the vineyard?
Enrique Tirado: Yes, that’s a very important element of Don Melchor. The original vineyard was planted about 150 years ago, and we have renovated it every 40-50 years. The original Cabernet Sauvignon comes from Bordeaux, and we maintain a massal selection. It’s not just one specific clone; it’s a diverse selection.
Why? Because I believe in biodiversity. With Cabernet Sauvignon as the base variety in the Don Melchor blend, we have a diverse selection. In the beginning, Don Melchor was 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, and even in recent years, we've had over 90-99%, sometimes 100%, Cabernet Sauvignon.
The massal selection is so unique because it provides different expressions. While all parcels maintain the core Don Melchor character, each contributes something distinct to the blend: one may offer more red fruit and finesse, while another adds concentration, freshness, or tension. Each parcel brings different aromas, flavors, and textures to the final blend.
We are very focused on this complexity. Today, we have subdivided the vineyard into 151 small parcels over 125 hectares, based on soil characteristics, vineyard expression, and most importantly, wine expression. This is what makes the wine truly unique.
Cynthia Chaplin: You became the technical director in 1997, so not quite 30 years. That was when the vineyard was divided into seven main parcels and, as you said, 151 mini parcels, working with what you called an agroecology model. Tell us why you made the decision to divide the vineyard in this particular way.
What exactly is an agroecology model, and how does it promote biodiversity and a better understanding of the old vines?
Enrique Tirado: Yes, it was an amazing decision. I started on the team in ‘95, and I have been in charge of Don Melchor since ‘97. I remember one specific time when I went to the vineyard.
I visited many times, but at the end of ‘96, I went there and thought, we must divide it because the vineyard showed us different expressions, different times of maturity, and different ripening periods.
We spent about five years studying the soil, the vineyard, and the wine, tasting the wine. Why? Because I thought if we wanted to increase and improve the Don Melchor expression and character, we needed to divide it. We had to manage each parcel as an individual vineyard and, similarly, manage the vinification process.
So, all the vineyard management is tailored to each parcel, including both the vineyard care and the vinification. My philosophy is to extract the best expression from each parcel — but the natural expression, without trying to alter it. For example, parcel number one produces more red fruit and finesse, while parcel number three provides more concentration. Another parcel gives more tension, energy, and freshness. Our goal is to respect these natural expressions, so when vinification is done, we choose the best parcel, the best expression, and we make the final blend.
We always make selections for the final blend based on the year and the climatic conditions, allowing us to use different parcels. The goal is to make the best Don Melchor every year.
Cynthia Chaplin: Obviously, not every piece of that vineyard is at the same stage at the same moment, but managing 151 small parcels is an intense amount of work, record-keeping, and management. So, having been in this divided system for such a long time, almost micro-managing these many parcels for 25 years, how have the wines of Don Melchor changed from when you decided to divide the vineyard in 1997 to now? What's in our glass now from Don Melchor that wasn't there in 1990, for example?
Enrique Tirado: The first Don Melchor wines from '87, '88, '89, and the most recent releases all show the Don Melchor personality because they reflect the Puente Alto character. However, in the last 10, 15, 20 years, I believe there is a different level of purity and precision. The precision behind the aromas and flavors is more refined and pure. We have a special definition; I like to say the wine produces a special emotion. Today, you can sense that emotion behind the Don Melchor wine.
I think this is due to the vineyard management and the vinification process. During vinification, we need to respect and bring out the best expression — this purity and emotion we aim for at the end of each vintage.
Cynthia Chaplin: And have you changed the vinification much over the years? Time spent in wood, size, and format of the barrels, things like that?
Enrique Tirado: Yes, regarding the barrels, we use oak — not necessarily the same origin or size each time. We still use the traditional barrel.
But, yes, we have selected specific origins for Don Melchor. We also have a lot of new technology and machines, but my philosophy remains the same. The idea is to make a wine that expresses its terroir and origin. The final wine is shaped by the terroir, not by a specific tank or technology. I don't like to say it’s made by a specific vat or technological technique. Instead, we use the best technology, knowledge, and experience, but our goal is to make a wine that truly expresses the terroir — the soil, the character of the Cabernet Sauvignon parcel, the Puente Alto terroir. We strive to make a wine that fully expresses its origin, the Don Melchor vineyard.
Cynthia Chaplin: That's a perfect segue for me to bring Ben into the conversation.
Ben, you have the enviable job of promoting Don Melchor wines, which Enrique described as having a unique ability to express incredible terroir and personality. How has Enrique's work over the past 25 years changed the position of Don Melchor's Cabernet Sauvignon in the region and in the global market?
We're talking about the Don Melchor personality and the Puente Alto character. How are you positioning these wines together? Where’s the biggest market for Don Melchor's Cabernet Sauvignon beyond Chile now compared to what it was like back in the early 90s?
Ben Smith: I think, starting with Don Melchor itself and Enrique's approach and his team, there is a relentless dedication to continuously improving quality. They take the natural gift of the terroir and the grapes that were planted, but they have the patience and analytical ability to finesse it constantly and in a humble way, always asking, "How can we make it better?" Enrique also works with consultants such as Eric Boissenot, who has been a long-term ally.
I have been fortunate enough to taste every vintage from 1988 to 2021. The quality is unmistakably high throughout, but it has continued to improve, gaining clarity and refinement. Today, winemakers don’t just stay in the vineyard and the winery; they travel globally, sharing the story of their wines. I’m pleased to say that Enrique and his colleagues are tireless in traveling around because there's no substitute for hearing a winemaker explain the terroir and the wine in front of you.
In a way, Don Melchor is a very simple concept. It’s a Chilean expression of the best Cabernet Sauvignon. Since the days when Émile Peynaud and others recognized they had something truly unique, they have taken that simple idea and refined it to its highest point. In terms of markets, Enrique can speak more, but I think Brazil, Asia, the U.S., and the U.K. are growing markets. What's refreshing, especially for someone who comes from an older, mature market for fine wine, is that the younger generation of wine drinkers is approaching it with an open mind. They want to drink the best, without being overly concerned with labels.
When you present these wines to them, they recognize quality, making communication so much easier.
Cynthia Chaplin: Absolutely. That's a great point. I'll circle back to this — our concern with younger markets and new wine drinkers entering the market.
We’re seeing a decline in global demand for Bordeaux wines. As someone from a European background, it's surprising, but being in Italy, I also see a rise in wines from regions like Etna. It’s exciting that Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, especially from Puente Alto, is attracting younger drinkers. I know biodiversity and sustainability are also big topics for them, which I discuss a lot in my professional life. So, I’d like to ask you, Enrique, about the Sundial Project, which is very exciting.
In 2018, you initiated the Sundial Project, a beautiful and visually stunning vineyard with a radial orientation. The vines are arranged around a central circular space, creating a sunburst pattern. Sustainability and adapting to climate change were just some of the motivations behind the project.
I encourage everyone listening to check out the website and see it — it's a glorious sight. What inspired you to create this sunburst pattern, and what experiments are you conducting with density, row orientation, and biodiversity? These are the things new wine drinkers are interested in. How did you start the project, and what have you learned over the past five or six years?
Enrique Tirado: Yes, it’s an amazing project. I was thinking about the future. Of course, we must preserve the old vineyard — it’s the heart of Don Melchor — but we also thought about what we would do if we ever needed to replant a specific parcel. We considered the best orientation and density to maximize the potential of the terroir. Is the best orientation still the same as 50 or 100 years ago, or has it changed? What will it be in the future?
So, we planted a vineyard in a sundial pattern as an experimental site, and it's truly amazing. After a few years, we have gathered a lot of data — information on temperature, phenolic compounds, radiation, and soil moisture.
With this new data, we can make informed decisions if we ever need to replant parcels, but we can also use this information to improve the management of the old vineyard. That’s very exciting because it’s not just about the future; it also benefits the present.
This experimental vineyard has given us a wealth of information on orientation and density. It's a unique vineyard experiment that lets us look forward to the future while honoring the past.
Cynthia Chaplin: I love the concept of the sundial as a bridge between the older vines and those you'll be replanting. It’s not only a beautiful piece of art, but it also reminds me of Renaissance garden planning — a cultural symbol.
It echoes ancient Andean expressions of the sun, but you're also using the new data to protect the old vines and plan for the future. There’s a synergy in the work you're doing. So, while we’re on this topic, I want to ask about AI. Artificial intelligence is a hot topic in the wine industry, particularly in viticulture and vineyard management. Are you using AI in the Sundial Project, and if so, how?
Enrique Tirado: Yes, AI is very interesting. We use AI in different ways. AI helps us compile, analyze, and make sense of the data from the vineyard, allowing us to identify patterns and gain insights into the information we have gathered. The goal is to use technology to benefit our vineyard, not to replace the traditional techniques but to enhance them.
For example, AI can help us detect and analyze soil moisture, climate patterns, and changes in the phenolic compounds. We use AI to make predictions based on this data to help us decide how best to manage the vineyard.
But it's not just about AI; it's about combining technology with experience, intuition, and knowledge. Our team gathers a lot of data but still works closely with the vines. Our goal is to find a balance between innovation and tradition, between the new tools available and the skills we’ve been using for years.
Ben Smith:
The only thing I would add, Cynthia, is I think in the case of the Don Melchor vineyard, with Enrique, you've got somebody who has walked every meter of that vineyard and has tasted every grape vine.
And, the micromanagement is already there. So whatever technology can add is only enhancing a deep understanding of the existing terroir.
Cynthia Chaplin: I am a firm believer that technology is only as useful as the person who is controlling it. So it's wonderful to see how passionate you are about every inch of that vineyard, and you've dedicated three decades of your life to it.
It shows on Ben's face, which is great when you are relying on someone for communications because the message comes across clearly. I really appreciate that. That's not always the case in wineries trying to do new things, so it's nice to see your respect for the past. And you are not at all afraid of employing new methods in your own way.
I like that you still maintain control over it. I don’t want to see any of this technology taking over. Your work is clearly very appreciated by the company as well. In 2019, you became the general manager of Viña Don Melchor. So, not only do you have old vines there, but you've also got long-standing relationships.
Ben mentioned that Jacques Boissenot, and now his son Eric, have continued to collaborate with you for many years. You've achieved so much over your long career, but I get the feeling, talking to you, that you are nowhere near finished. So, I'd like to know what your dreams and ambitions are for Don Melchor over the next five or ten years. With the Sundial Project and everything you're learning, what plans do you have for the old vines and the preservation of their genetic legacy as you move forward into the next generation of new vineyards?
Enrique Tirado: My philosophy is quality, quality, quality. Excellence, excellence, excellence, and the best expression. Every year, I restart. I try to approach every vintage with a fresh perspective, not by thinking, "We are going to do the same as last year or the last ten years." I aim to start anew each year, considering what's new, what the future holds, and how we can improve quality and enhance expression. This approach keeps me feeling young every year. Boissenot is very important to us, contributing to our philosophy of creating the best expression from this particular terroir.
If we can gain an external perspective, why not? It’s beneficial. I am deeply focused on Don Melchor, the parcels, the terroir, and the vinification. The Boissenot family are experts in crafting the final blend. So, having an external view helps us achieve the best expression, the highest quality, and, more importantly, the truest expression of this unique terroir — the Don Melchor terroir. Every morning, I think about how we can put forth our best effort and passion behind the wine. Our goal is to strive for excellence every day.
Right now, I am already thinking about the next vintage, 2025. Yes, we are dedicated to preserving the old vines. That is very important for us. Don Melchor, as I said, represents both the past, with its old vines, and the future. We are very committed to that.
Cynthia Chaplin: One last question before I let you go. What do you think is the biggest challenge facing the Don Melchor vineyards? We are all concerned about climate change around the world. You are at a significant altitude and benefit from the lovely diurnal temperature changes, but you also have long hours of sunlight, which I assume brings some water stress.
What do you think will be the biggest challenges for the vineyard at Puente Alto in the coming years?
Enrique Tirado: Yes, probably in the past, the average temperatures during the ripening season were almost the same as today, compared to 30 years ago. But the difference now is, as you mentioned, we are experiencing more extreme conditions.
Some years are warmer, while others are cooler, so we need to adapt. In a typical year, if you pick the grapes today or tomorrow, it makes little difference. But in an extreme year, there can be significant changes from one day to the next. That’s the main difference today.
The decision-making window is likely shorter than it was 30 years ago, although we've still had some normal years in recent times. This is why the experimental vineyard and research center are so important. We have more data, a deeper understanding of the vineyard, the vinification process, and the wine, allowing us to use this knowledge to guide our approach.
The primary challenge, related to the weather, is water management. We need to be smarter when it comes to managing water in the vineyard. Fortunately, we have enough water, and Puente Alto benefits from the moderating influence of the Andes. So, while we face challenges, we are still fortunate to have such a unique and exceptional terroir.
Cynthia Chaplin: That's great. I'm really happy to hear such a positive outlook. I do believe that high-altitude vineyard sites will be crucial to the future of winemaking, and yours is certainly at a significant altitude. I can't thank you both enough for your time today. It’s been such an interesting conversation, and I’m really grateful for the passion you have for preserving the old vine material and carrying that legacy into the future of your winemaking. Thank you so much, Enrique, and thank you, Ben, for joining us today. It has been truly my pleasure to speak with both of you and to learn more about Viña Don Melchor.
Enrique Tirado: Thank you, Cynthia. I hope to see you in Chile next time.
Ben Smith: Thank you, Cynthia.
Cynthia Chaplin: I would love that! Thank you both. Have a wonderful afternoon.